In honor of Tax Day, when comfort food is truly needed, I blissed out on my three favorite anxiety medications — cheese, pasta and butter — and set out to find the best mac ‘n’ cheese in town. Because even if the government said no to a refund check, they can’t stop me from getting fat.
Dumont: I started my macaroni quest in the hip land of Billyburg, just off the Lorimer L stop. With enough “vintage details” to drown a cow, half of Williamsburg now looks like Dumont, but 10 years ago, these guys were probably just trying to build a restaurant in Williamsburg that didn’t look like a bodega. And they did just that. It’s tiny, cozy and masculine, like if Burt Reynolds had an apartment in the 1880s.
The Mac: There are two camps in the mac ‘n’ cheese world: super cheesy and super creamy. Dumont takes the creamy route. Their brain-crushing creamy sauce has the stinky elegance of Gruyere and Parmesan mixed with some down-home American cheddar. The fresh radiattore pasta, which looks like a mini honeycomb, gets major points for uniqueness, but at the end of the day I prefer a firmer, chewier pasta in my mac. But who am I kidding, this is still the kind of dish that makes vegans hate the rest of us.